Wednesday 25 November 2009

A city full of vitality and contradictions


I’m standing in front of the Petronas Twin Towers and my view is quickly climbing up their stylish glass facade. Somewhere up there, almost half a kilometre above my head, the shining peak of the formerly highest building of the world touches the black night sky. I’m admiring the towers’ architecture that combines Asian shapes with Western construction design. This is indeed a symbol for the modern Malaysia that proudly presents itself to foreign visitors as a progressive and self-confident nation.

Kuala Lumpur – often abbreviated „K.L.“ – Malaysia’s capital, is a city full of vitality and contradictions. I remember my first impressions when I arrived here some days ago. Kuala Lumpur International Airport (KLIA) seemed to me as a futuristic, yet somewhat sterile place. A taxi driver took my friends and me to Chinatown. When it gets night in this part of the city, European visitors feel like entering a fascinating exotic world. The streets, which are lit by dozens of neon signs, are full of people – Chinese, Indians, Malays and Westerners. The waiters in the restaurants are doing their best in loudly attracting potential customers. While we’re having dinner, suddenly a group of street musicians is passing by and after they have received some Ringgit from us, they’re singing us a potpourri of Beatles songs. What a sharp contrast to some cities in my home country Germany which almost seem to turn into ghost towns as soon as the night comes!

The traditional city centre is located around the Dataran Merdeka. There you can almost breathe Malaysia’s colonial history. The neatly cut down lawn invokes associations of the former colonial power. But when you have a closer look at the Sultan Abdul Sama Building – one of K.L.’s symbols which is located right next to the Dataran Merdeka and which housed the Supreme Court before – a strong Arabian influence begins to show, even though one of the building’s towers is widely known as „Big Ben of Malaysia“.

Of course this impressive city also has its dark sides. I remember the obviously drunken parking attendant who did his work even at 3 o’clock in the morning, just to earn some money. And what about the daily social interaction between people from so many different religious and ethnic backgrounds? Is it really as unproblematic as it seems at first sight? I don’t feel able yet to respond to this crucial question. The insights I have gained are far too superficial to find a profound answer.

After four days we’re leaving this fascinating city filled with beautiful memories. Goodbye, K.L., and thank you for this great time. I’m sure that I will visit you again one day…